Drag this button to your bookmarks bar, then click it while you're looking at any Zillow or Redfin listing. The house is added to your list straight away — in the AllSquare tab you already have open, if there is one.

You'll need to do this once per browser or computer — bookmarks don't travel with your account, and AllSquare has no account to travel with.

A decision tool for a shortlist. You find houses on Zillow, Redfin or through your agent; AllSquare is where the three or four survivors go to be compared properly — the true monthly cost, a transparent renovation-cost estimate, commute times, flood-zone risk, and a weighted score that ranks them against what you care about.

The four things it does that a listing site doesn't: it puts your shortlist side by side, it holds the details the listing never carried, it prices the work each house needs, and it turns all of that into one ranking you control.

No, deliberately. Discovery is well served by Zillow, Redfin and the MLS, and duplicating it would add nothing. AllSquare picks up at the point where you have a handful of candidates and have to choose — which is the part those sites don't help with, because comparing them properly means adding information the listing never had.

Two is enough to be useful; four to six is the sweet spot. It's built for a shortlist you're actively weighing, not an archive of everything you've ever viewed — though nothing stops you keeping a longer list and hiding the ones you've ruled out.

No account, and it's free to use right now. There's no sign-up — everything you add is saved in your browser and is there when you come back.

Click Add a house. There are three ways in, and they differ mostly in how much gets filled in for you:

• The bookmarklet (best). One click while you're on the listing. It reads the page you're actually looking at, so it picks up taxes, HOA, schools and prior sales that a link alone often misses — and it works on pages our server can't fetch.
• Paste a link. A Zillow or Redfin URL is fetched and parsed for you. Fewer fields than the bookmarklet gets, but nothing to install.
• Type it in. Only the address is required. Everything else can be added later, and any imported value can be corrected. This is also how an MLS-only house gets in — or paste the listing sheet or your agent's email into the same box and it'll read what it can.

Add two or more houses before the comparison has anything to say.

The bookmarklet reads Zillow and Redfin. Pasting a link fetches Zillow and Redfin too. MLS portals can't be read either way — paste the listing text instead, or type it in. Any house from any source can always be added by hand.

Listings differ in what they expose, so an import occasionally comes up short. Every field is editable on the house card — just fill in whatever's missing, and the "Needs you" chips show what still wants a value.

In your own browser — your lists and houses aren't uploaded to a server. Aggregate, anonymous usage analytics may be collected to improve the app; the details are in the privacy policy.

Because it's stored locally, clearing site data — or opening the app in a different browser or on another device — starts fresh. Use Backup JSON (next to the export buttons) to save a copy you can restore anytime. Optional account sync across devices is planned but not available yet.

Not yet — read-only sharing is planned. For now, Backup JSON → Restore JSON moves a whole list between browsers.

No. Many figures are estimates from published benchmarks and rules of thumb — treat them as guidance, not fact, and not financial advice. Wherever you have a real number (your rate, a quote, the tax bill), enter it and the estimate steps aside.

Loan principal & interest on the standard amortization curve, plus property tax, insurance, and HOA — the true "what leaves your account each month." Full detail on the methodology page.

A safe / stretch / over-budget rating from the classic 28 / 36 / 43 debt-to-income lines. It appears once you add your income (and any monthly debts) to the financing profile under List setup.

Each item is priced from a sourced national rate × size, at a budget / mid / high tier, adjusted for the home's region. Then you say whether you're actually doing it. Only work marked definite reaches any money figure — the all-in price, the monthly payment and the ranking all use the definite total. Optional work is totalled separately, so you can see the ceiling without a wish list making a house look expensive. The test: would you still buy the house knowing you had to do this? If yes, it's definite.

Usually yes. Cash at closing is treated as a fixed pot: closing costs come out of it first, then any renovation money you're funding from it, and whatever survives is your down payment. Spend it on the kitchen and it isn't the down payment any more — so you borrow more, and the payment goes up.

On each house card, under Financing, you pick where the money comes from:

• From this budget — out of the same money you're buying with. Smaller down payment, bigger loan, higher monthly payment. The card shows both figures.
• From money outside it — other savings, next year's income, a separate loan. The mortgage is untouched, but you still have to find the cash.

One thing that surprises people: rolling the work into the mortgage and paying for it out of your closing cash come to the same monthly payment. Financing borrows (price + work) against a down payment of (cash − closing costs); paying cash borrows (price) against a down payment of (cash − closing costs − work). Both come to the same loan. That's why there are two options here and not three — the only question that changes the numbers is whether the money comes from this budget at all.

Only definite work counts in any of this. Optional items never touch the payment, the all-in price, or the ranking.

It's your buying position, set once under List setup, and every house uses it — so the monthly figures compare like for like.

• Cash at closing — everything you'll bring to the table. Estimated closing costs come out of it first; whatever's left is the down payment.
• Interest rate — your lender's quote if you have one, otherwise today's national average from the link beside the field. It's the most sensitive number here.
• Loan term — 30 years is standard; 15 raises the payment sharply and cuts total interest.
• Income and monthly debts (optional) — add these and every house gets a safe / stretch / over-budget rating. Debt payments only: car, student loans, cards. Not groceries and utilities.

Any of these can be overridden on a single house — useful when one seller is offering a rate buy-down, or you'd put more down on one property than another.

Set scoring weights for what matters to you — price, commute, space, condition, and more — and AllSquare combines them into one weighted score that ranks the houses. Change the weights and the ranking updates live.

Add one or more destinations under List setup, and each house shows the drive time to them — estimated at a typical weekday morning rush hour (traffic-aware), recomputed on demand rather than continuously.

Click Check flood zone on a house — it looks up FEMA's flood map for the address (free, no key needed) and flags whether flood insurance is typically required there.

When left blank, homeowners and flood insurance pre-fill from regional benchmarks so nothing gets missed; edit them anytime with a real quote.

Use the CSV and PDF buttons above the comparison. Backup JSON saves a full copy of the list (houses, renovations, financing, weights) that you can restore later.

Yes — it's responsive and works in a mobile browser.

No — it's an independent tool and isn't affiliated with Zillow or any listing site. Imported listing data belongs to its source.

Use the Send feedback link in the footer — it opens an email. Bug reports and feature ideas are genuinely welcome.